Summer Travel and the Joy of Traffic Jams

Well, I said I would have pictures up while on my trip ... I lied! This wasn't intentional; we just forgot to bring the SmartCard to upload the pics. Whoops. Rest assured I'll have an entry up soon covering the drop-dead gorgeous Hilton Head.

But while we wait, let's talk about the inevitable joy of many long summer road trips ... Traffic Jams! As the drive to Hilton Head from D.C. is well over 400 miles of I-95, a few snafus here and there are to be expected. Unfortunately, as I rode with my aunt and boyfriend, we came across two nasty accidents. One snarled traffic so badly that we went 2 miles ... in 1.5 hours! This happened near Lumberton, North Carolina. I'd like to thank my sister and brother-in-law for waiting patiently for an hour at The Cracker Barrel for us, then turning around and going back there when they learned we were free of the misery and on our way for lunch! They played checkers and repeatedly changed our reservation as we lumbered along in Lumberton ... hehehe, I couldn't resist that bad pun.

Thankfully, traffic was much lighter after my aunt treated us to our wonderful hearty meal, and we only stopped again two more times, once to get gas in the refreshingly-named town Summerton, South Carolina, where a couple sold peaches at a fruit stand in the parking lot. The second time, we pulled into a Stuckey's farther along for Dairy Queen and a look at some trashy souvenirs. We also met a mother cat and her kittens, all gray and brown tabbies, who are apparently cared for and loved by the Stuckey's owner.

And ... 13.5 hours later, we made it! I think it's worth mentioning that the trip BACK to Northern VA took only 9 hours. What are your worst traffic jam tales? And what do you like to do to pass the time in a jam? (My aunt had fun watching rock videos on her new phone :) but I saw other people getting out of the cars and just walking a few miles for some much needed exercise!)

Hello from Hilton Head

Greetings faithful readers! :) I'm writing from Hilton Head Island, where my family has rented a drop-dead gorgeous beach house.

We arrived at something like 7 PM today after an exhausting drive replete with strange happenings ... which, rest assured, you will hear all about later.

For now, I'm still somehow covered in chlorine, sand, and salt water despite a signature hour-long hot shower. Maybe that stuff just never really comes off when you're at the beach. Maybe this isn't a bad thing.

More tomorrow! Will post night beach pictures! (Stars at night over the total black of the ocean ... there is no comparison)

Journeys: Lake Martin, Alabama, August 2008

When I took a trip out to Lake Martin with my family to visit my Uncle Cliff and Aunt Barbara at their beautiful lake house, I was expecting just a lazy summer vacation. I was definitely not expecting the fascinating history and sights that make up this 44 acre reservoir. Spanning three counties in the southeastern area of Alabama, the lake was created in the late 1920s by opening up a dam and washing over several small towns. It's today home to multiple small islands, many with distinctive histories and names.

Despite this, Lake Martin may perhaps be most famous for its recreational appeal. Pontoon boats go out into the water and dock (anywhere), with eager swimmers leaping overboard into the surprisingly warm, bathlike water. Uncle Cliff would drive his boat out a couple of times a day: once to find a good place to float around for a few hours with beers, rafts, and the family dog, and a second time to watch the sun go down behind the trees.

A typical August afternoon at Lake Martin

It was very peaceful in the surprisingly clear water (visibility about 10 feet down), except when my sister tried to grab my foot under the water or send a mini-tidal wave my way. (Sisters lose all sense of adulthood when they are together.) But our swims were often accompanied by a trip out to see some of the islands that are scattered in handfuls across the lake. With Uncle Cliff as our tour guide, we learned a good deal.

This is Chimney Rock Island, home of two popular jumping points: Chimney Rock and Acapulco Rock. The more popular rock is Acapulco (because it's higher), but it's often confused for Chimney Rock.

Sadly, many people have died or been injured by jumping off the rocks, including a teenaged boy who is now memorialized by a plaque on Acapulco Rock. My dad was apparently one of the (thankfully unharmed) jumpers back in 2006, but this time we wouldn't let him near it!

The rocks do have a friendlier history. Every 4th of July, hundreds of boats line up around Chimney Rock Island for partyin' and carryin' on.

Just in case you think your eyes are deceiving you, let me reassure you that yes, those are goats hanging out by the water! This colony of six goats lives on Goat Island, uninhabited by humans. Someone drops off hay for the critters, but they love seeing visitors, whom they openly solicit for carrots or, well, anything. We got close enough that they ran down to greet us, then made loud goat noises.

This is The Ridge Bridge, better known as the Bridge to Nowhere. Constructed to link two islands at the lake, and then seemingly abandoned, it just sits there ... no visible roads on either side, just plenty of trees! Supposedly, one day, homes will be built on one of the islands, and those residents will use this bridge. For now, it's just ... going nowhere.

Another island that we docked at often was Sand Island, a long stretch of sandy beach with a bit of sparse woods. Partygoers often dock here, leaving behind fire pits and various and sundry other items. The water surrounding the island is full of micah, so that it glitters gold in the sun.

One island we didn't get to see is Graveyard Island, so named because it's mostly a tiny graveyard left over from before the days of Lake Martin. It seemed to be too far for us to go out there and get back to the house in time to watch Michael Phelps collect more gold medals in the Olympic Games. I guess I'll have to make a trip back to check that out!

The little communities around Lake Martin are interesting themselves. They are full of "meat and twos" or "meat and threes." These are so named because you get a meat and two or three vegetables for one great low price. We ate at the Kountry Kitchen (or Kountry Kafe, depending on which sign you're looking at) and found the meal hearty and yummy, although my green beans were a bit too stringy, and an old farmer made a weird pass or two at me and my sister!

We also ate at Sinclair's, a nice restaurant with a deck overlooking the lake, which really shines when you watch the sun set on it. That kind of view combined with a beer or two is incredibly relaxing.

I'm looking forward to visiting my relatives at Lake Martin again some future summer. Having done my fair share of traveling in the United States, I can honestly say there are few places that provide this type of tranquility, combined with a strange sort of intrigue and curiosity.

Photo credits: Bridge to Nowhere photo by Martha V. Lynch; all others by Jim Lynch.

Adventures with Restaurants: Clyde's Willow Creek Farm

Clyde's is well known for owning a series of fantastic restaurants in the DC Metro area. But I had never heard of this beautiful little place out in the Broadlands community of Ashburn, Virginia (part of Loudon County). According to Clyde's web site (www.Clydes.com), the idea came about when Clyde's owners decided to reassemble some dismantled antique wooden buildings on this spot near Dulles International Airport. I'm so glad they did. Comfy and cozy, the restaurant has the excellent service of fine dining and the romance of a family homestead.

A large group of old friends and myself assembled in a rented private room upstairs for a buddy's surprise party, organized by his wife. I felt supremely sorry for the waiter as he carried huge tray after huge tray up the stairs to us, but if he felt fatigued or irritated, he didn't show it for one second. I ordered the Jumbo Lump crabcake, which came with an assortment of fries, corn, and tomatoes. Since most crabcakes I get are usually huge, I decided on just the single rather than the double. I was surprised when the crabcake turned out to be rather small, although delighted it came without breading -- just big lumps of delicious crab. Next time I'll make sure to get a double order. The fries were so-so, but a liberal dousing of vinegar improved them greatly.

All in all, I was impressed with Willow Creek Farm. I'm eagerly awaiting a chance to get back and eat two crabcakes. (A friend challenged me to a crabcake eating contest, so we may have to get more than that ;) And yes, our buddy was pleasantly surprised by the party. Unfortunately, the evening ended with my having to go through two tolls (Dulles Greenway and Dulles Toll Road), when I was just expecting one! Not having enough change for the second, we had to just drive through with the sound of the violation bell screaming in our ears. (It's LOUD!) I called today to make the rest of the payment, and yes, they had recorded the violation! Maybe should I make myself more familiar with the Ashburn area (or get a better GPS). I suppose another trip out to Willow Creek would be the perfect way to do that!

Strange Delights: Mo's Bacon Bar by Vosges

Bacon and chocolate. Bacon and chocolate?! I bet you never mixed some of that up at the breakfast table, did you? Not to worry, because Vosges fine chocolates are here to correct any previous misconceptions on your part that this wouldn't be a good idea. This incredibly smooth, thin, dark chocolate bar (also available in milk chocolate) is interspersed with delightful little pings of real, honest-to-goodness bacon throughout. No Bacon Bits here -- this is the real deal. I was surprised and delighted by how well the two tastes go together, and thankful I thought to pick up two bars (although one was supposed to be for Eric...oops). The chocolate melts right in your mouth, and the hint of bacon flavor is neither overpowering nor weak.

If you live here in Arlington, VA, you can find Vosges products at The Curious Grape in Shirlington. Or, order right from the maker at http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/. Check out their other yummy, unique flavors while you are there -- and their giant bacon-chocolate gift set, including a corresponding pancake mix I am dying to try!

Thanks for keeping life interesting, Vosges (and Mo)!

How Did I Forget...

....to mention Bob and Edith's, that little hub of anytime good old fashioned eating?

Located in the 2000 block of Columbia Pike, the little square building, mounted on a concrete block, sits between gas stations and serves up everything from scrapple 'n' eggs to whole pies. Arlington has a nice set of tasty all-night diners, but stepping inside this one makes me feel like I've just been transported to a little sea port town, or a tiny, one-stop-sign area in the middle of Georgia. The food is served piping hot and super fast, but there's no innate sense of the hustle and bustle that defines the metropolitan Washington area. Open since 1969, the place embraces modernity - a flat-screen TV is mounted on one wall - while holding onto the past with its bright jukebox and faded pictures of celebrities and school kids hung crookedly on the wall. On a recent night there, my dining partner (Eric) and I devoured a Couples' Waffle Sundae in a booth next to a familiar man -- familiar because I swear he's been there every evening, eating his dinner at the counter, for the two years I've been in Arlington. Further down the aisle from us, a man moved over in his booth seat so his female companion could scoot next to him to watch Law & Order: SVU. It was a typical weeknight at the diner, but I knew that when the weekend came up, the joint would be packed full of loud young partygoers enjoying an early breakfast before heading home to sleep it off.

So come on in, and pore over the bright yellow laminated menu before making your selection. Whether you're coming here to relax at the end of a hard work day or crowded into the booths with six friends after a night out at the bars -- Bob and Edith's is happy to serve you.

Note for my fellow former Blacksburgians: If you're looking for Arlington's answer to Joe's Diner, here it is!

Food That Isn't Good For Your Heart, But Definitely Good for Your Taste Buds ...

Food, glorious food! If you want something tasty this summer (and can stand to stop countin' calories for a day), just venture to the D.C. area for some classic eats! My recommendations for a ...

Nice, juicy burger: You won't find any better than Ray's Hell Burger at 1713 Wilson Boulevard in Arlington (Rosslyn neighborhood). I've only been here twice now (on the other side of town) but I'll gladly venture back again and again. I got the au poivre burger, a peppercorn-encrusted behemoth that dripped with tastiness all over my plate. Good thing Ray's provides plenty of paper towels! I got my burger with pepperjack cheese and some guacamole on the side, and a big tasty bottle of Moxie soda (which is pretty rare around here). You can pile your own burger with a wide variety of toppings or take one of Ray's suggestions on the flipside of the menu. Oh, and they have root beer on tap! Final verdict: Best burger I've ever had, bar none. (Now to try Ray's other restaurants: Ray's: The Steaks and Ray's: The Classics.)

Hot dog: Want it with chili? Head over to Ben's Chili Bowl on U Street - an area rich with African American history. This home of the famous half smoke has been in the business since 1958. It survived riots following the asassination of Martin Luther King, Jr. and sits on what was once known as "Black Broadway." (See http://www.benschilibowl.com/ for the full story and lots of great photos!) Now a landmark, we happened to visit on a day an independent documentary was being filmed. Our group was struggling to find a place to sit in the popular restaurant when a nice lady said, "Oh, honey, you can sit back here!" and showed us to a back room, which was reserved for the film crew that day (who took pictures of us eating)! My half smoke was smothered in generous amounts of delicious chili and I almost died and went to heaven devouring it.

The back room's walls were decorated with a beautiful painting of prominent African American figures, multiple photos of famous people who have visited the place (Bill Cosby was an avid Bowl-goer), and an amazing portrait that Eric said was made entirely out of wire. (I couldn't see that well across the room.) Visit this place for the yummy, perfectly cooked food ... and the bustling, friendly neighborhood atmosphere!

Pizza and beer: The Lost Dog Cafe serves up meals for a cause: The owners are directly involved in the rescue of hundreds of dogs and cats, and restaurant proceeds help out The Lost Dog and Cat Foundation (http://www.lostdogrescue.com/). I visited the brand new location on Columbia Pike and found a HUGE menu with 52 different speciality sandwiches (and plenty of "build-your-own" options), and at least 31 gourmet pizza options, not to mention a wide variety of appetizers, soups, salads, pasta, and desserts. The Crabmeat pizza comes with slabs of yummy crustacean across the top, while the Burro Pie equals homemade pico de gallo and black been dip with cheeses right on the crust. Speaking of crust, it's so good you might want to munch on that alone for a snack -- soft and doughy. And then there's the beer menu ... it's a brew-lover's dream with scores and scores of imported and domestic (including many IPA) beers, plus several wines and non-alcoholic options. Try the Clemson Tiger Tea to wash down your food -- it's a mixture of lemonade and iced tea.

The restaurant itself is clean and well-lit, with a friendly, down-home feel, a wall of beer bottles behind the bar, and a slew of framed rescued (or waiting-to-be-adopted) doggie pics. If you live closer to Washington Boulevard, there's another location there. Also on Washington Boulevard: sister eatery and animal helper The Stray Cat Cafe, which features many Meditteranean options as well as another giant menu full of sandwiches, burgers and platters galore. (Haven't been there yet, but rest assured I will soon :) For more information, visit http://www.lostdogcafe.com/ or http://www.thestraycatcafe.com/.

Bolivian, anyone?: Have you ever had a saltena? If not, get thee to My Bakery & Cafe. My coworkers introduced me to the joy of Bolivian food here, and I have been back several times. With a few locations in Alexandria, Falls Church, and Manassas, you can find one somewhere near you in the Washington D.C. outskirts.

So, what is a saltena? It's a round pastry with beef, chicken, and veggie stew inside. Warm and hearty, even just one is great for a satisfying meal, especially on a chilly, rainy day. You will get a side of green spicy sauce to dole onto your saltena. It's delicious, but beware -- it will also set your mouth on fire!

Aside from that, there are many other delicious options, many of which come with yuca (like french fries, only thicker and chewier), fried plantains, and egg. It's all quite yummy, but the food is heavy and the portions are generous, so be prepared to bring some home for dinner! (Please don't waste this good food!) My Bakery also has a wide variety of yummy-sounding cakes for all kinds of occasions, including Tres Leches (Three Milks) in a cup!

A gathering in your own backyard: My advice is this: Get a bushel of crabs, sprinkle liberally with Old Bay seasoning, and pass around the Honey Moon (Blue Moon's summer seasonal brew!). Ahhhhh...now that's heaven!